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Quick answer: “rose oil” can mean two very different products. Rose otto is a true essential oil, distilled from fresh petals of the Damask rose (Rosa x damascena), mainly in Bulgaria and Turkey. Rose absolute is made by solvent extraction, often from Rosa x centifolia or Damask roses, and smells deeper and closer to the fresh flower. The fragrant water left over from distillation is rose water. Real rose otto takes several thousand kilograms of petals per kilogram of oil, so it is costly and often faked. Both otto and absolute contain methyl eugenol and recognized fragrance allergens, so use them at low dilutions.
Rose is the classic luxury scent. It has been prized for thousands of years, it sits at the heart of a huge share of fine perfumes and it is one of the most expensive natural materials you can buy. It is also one of the most confusing to shop for, because “rose oil,” “rose otto,” “rose absolute,” “rose essential oil” and “rose in jojoba” are all sold side by side at wildly different prices.
This guide explains what each product is, where it comes from and how to choose and use it safely. For general dilution and storage rules, see our essential oils guide.
Sources: Robert Tisserand and Rodney Young, Essential Oil Safety, 2nd edition (Churchill Livingstone, 2014); ISO 9842, oil of rose (Rosa x damascena); European Commission eAmbrosia register (Bulgarian rose oil, protected geographical indication); EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annex III (methyl eugenol and fragrance allergens); International Fragrance Association (IFRA) Standards; Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Plants of the World Online. Checked October 2026. General information, not medical advice.
The Roses Behind Rose Oil
Out of the thousands of garden roses, only a few are grown commercially for fragrance.
- Damask rose (Rosa x damascena). The main rose for distilled oil and rose water. It is a very old hybrid with intensely fragrant pink flowers. The largest producing regions are the Rose Valley around Kazanlak in Bulgaria and the Isparta region of Turkey, with smaller production in countries such as Iran, Morocco and India.
- Cabbage rose or rose de mai (Rosa x centifolia). A many-petaled rose grown around Grasse in southern France and in Morocco, used mainly for rose absolute.
- Other roses. Small amounts of oil and absolute come from other species and cultivars, but they are uncommon in retail aromatherapy.
Rose harvests are short and intense. Damask roses bloom for only a few weeks in late spring, and the flowers are picked by hand in the early morning, when their scent is strongest. They must be processed quickly, before the petals lose their fragrance.
Rose Otto: The Distilled Essential Oil
Rose otto (sometimes spelled “attar” or “ottar”) is the true essential oil of rose. It is made by distilling fresh Damask rose petals with water and steam.
Why it costs so much
Rose petals contain very little oil. Industry sources commonly put the yield at several thousand kilograms of petals for a single kilogram of rose otto. Add the short season, hand picking and the need for immediate distillation, and the price of real rose otto is among the highest of any essential oil.
Why it turns solid in the cold
Pure rose otto often turns cloudy or partly solid at cool room temperatures. That is not a defect. Rose otto contains waxy compounds called stearoptenes, mainly long-chain hydrocarbons, that crystallize in the cold. Warming the bottle gently in your hand liquefies it again. A “rose otto” that stays perfectly clear in a cold room may be diluted or adulterated, though that alone is not proof.
What it smells like
Rose otto is fresh, bright and slightly green, with a honeyed, lemony floral character. Its main components include citronellol, geraniol and nerol. Trace compounds such as beta-damascenone, present in very small amounts, contribute strongly to the classic rose scent.
Bulgarian rose oil
Bulgaria’s Rose Valley has produced rose oil for centuries, and “Bulgarian rose oil” is registered in the European Union as a protected geographical indication, according to the European Commission’s eAmbrosia register. ISO 9842 is the international standard that sets quality ranges for rose oil from Rosa x damascena, including expected levels of key constituents.
Rose Absolute: The Solvent Extract
Rose absolute is not technically an essential oil, because it is not distilled. It is made in two stages:
- Concrete. Petals are washed with a solvent, traditionally hexane, which dissolves the aromatic compounds along with waxes and pigments. The solvent is removed, leaving a waxy solid called a concrete.
- Absolute. The concrete is washed with alcohol, which dissolves the fragrant material but not most of the wax. The alcohol is then removed, leaving a thick, deeply colored liquid: the absolute.
Some producers also offer rose CO2 extracts, made using carbon dioxide under pressure instead of a liquid solvent.
How it differs from rose otto
The biggest chemical difference is phenylethyl alcohol, a compound with a soft, fresh-rose smell. It dissolves readily in water, so during distillation much of it stays in the rose water rather than in the otto. Solvent extraction keeps it, so rose absolute is rich in phenylethyl alcohol and smells closer to a fresh rose in a garden: deeper, sweeter and more honeyed.
Absolute yields more aromatic material per kilogram of petals than distillation, so it is usually somewhat less expensive than rose otto, though still costly.
Solvent residues
Responsibly produced absolutes contain only trace solvent residues, and quality standards limit these. Some aromatherapists still prefer otto for skin use and reserve absolutes for perfume. That is a personal choice; ask the supplier for residue testing if it matters to you.
Rose Water
Rose water, also called rose hydrosol, is the fragrant water left after distilling rose otto, or water distilled specifically to make rose water. It contains a small amount of dissolved aromatic compounds, especially phenylethyl alcohol, and smells soft and powdery.
Rose water has a long culinary tradition in the Middle East, South Asia and North Africa, flavoring desserts such as Turkish delight, gulab jamun and many rice puddings. It is also widely used as a gentle facial toner. Only buy rose water labeled as food grade if you intend to cook with it, and look for products that list rose water (Rosa damascena flower water) as the main ingredient rather than water with added fragrance.
Rose Products Compared
| Product | How it is made | Main rose | Scent | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rose otto | Water and steam distillation | Rosa x damascena | Fresh, bright, lemony floral | Perfume, skin care, aromatherapy |
| Rose absolute | Solvent extraction (concrete, then alcohol) | Rosa x centifolia or damascena | Deep, sweet, honeyed, “fresh flower” | Perfume, natural fragrance |
| Rose CO2 extract | Supercritical carbon dioxide extraction | Various | Close to the fresh flower | Perfume, skin care |
| Rose water | By-product or dedicated distillation | Rosa x damascena | Soft, powdery, light | Toner, cooking (food grade only) |
| Rose in jojoba | Otto or absolute diluted in jojoba oil | Varies | Lighter versions of the above | Ready-to-use body and perfume oil |
| Rosehip seed oil | Pressed from seeds | Rosa canina, Rosa rubiginosa | Mild, slightly earthy | Carrier oil for skin care (not a fragrance oil) |
Rosehip seed oil deserves a note. It is a pressed carrier oil from the seeds of wild roses and has nothing to do with rose fragrance. Our comparison of carrier oils covers how fixed oils like this are used.
How Rose Is Used
In perfume
Rose is in an enormous number of fragrances, from soft florals to deep orientals. Natural rose otto and absolute are used in fine perfumery, but most mass-market products rely partly or fully on synthetic rose materials such as phenylethyl alcohol, citronellol and geraniol, because natural rose is so expensive.
In skin care
Rose otto and rose water appear in face oils, creams and toners, mostly for fragrance and feel. Claims that rose oil reverses aging or heals skin are not supported by strong evidence.
In aromatherapy
Rose is used in blends meant to feel comforting or uplifting. Small studies have tested inhaled rose oil for relaxation and mood, with mixed results, and the NCCIH describes research on aromatherapy in general as limited. Enjoy rose for its scent rather than for a promised outcome.
Safety
Rose has a gentle reputation, but it contains components that regulators watch closely.
Methyl eugenol
Rose otto and, to a lesser degree, rose absolute contain methyl eugenol, a compound that caused cancer in rodent studies at high doses. The EU Cosmetics Regulation restricts methyl eugenol in cosmetic products, and IFRA standards limit it in fragrances. In Essential Oil Safety, Tisserand and Young recommend a low maximum skin concentration for rose otto for this reason. In practice, that means using rose at low dilutions, which is easy, because its scent is strong.
Fragrance allergens
Citronellol, geraniol, linalool and other rose components are on the EU’s list of fragrance allergens that must be labeled in cosmetics above set levels. Some people develop allergic reactions to them. Our guide to essential oil skin reactions explains patch testing and what to do if your skin reacts.
General precautions
- Dilute. Use low dilutions for skin, especially on the face.
- Patch test before wider use.
- Do not swallow rose otto or absolute. Only food-grade rose water is meant for cooking.
- Children. Use extra caution and keep bottles out of reach.
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding. Check with a qualified healthcare provider.
- Pets. Diffuse only briefly in ventilated rooms and make sure animals can leave.
How to Spot Fake Rose Oil
Because real rose is so expensive, it is one of the most adulterated oils on the market. Common tricks include cutting it with geranium or palmarosa oil, adding synthetic rose compounds or selling a “rose fragrance oil” as if it were the real thing.
Warning signs:
- A price that seems too good. A large bottle of “pure rose essential oil” for the price of lavender is almost certainly not pure rose otto.
- No botanical name or origin. Real rose otto should list Rosa x damascena and a country such as Bulgaria or Turkey.
- No method stated. The label should say whether it is distilled (otto) or extracted (absolute).
- No batch test report. Reputable suppliers provide GC/MS data.
- A scent that is sharp, soapy or one-dimensional rather than rich and layered.
Diluted rose is a legitimate and affordable product, as long as it says so. A label such as “rose otto, 3 percent in jojoba” is honest. Our full guide to telling whether essential oils are pure covers test reports in more detail.
Using Rose at Home
- Buy it diluted. Unless you blend perfume often, rose pre-diluted in jojoba is the most practical way to use it.
- Personal perfume. Combine rose with a woody base, such as sandalwood or cedarwood, and a citrus top note, such as bergamot, in a roller bottle. Our guide to making an essential oil roller blend explains safe dilution step by step.
- Face oil. A single drop of rose otto in a tablespoon or more of a light carrier oil makes a fragrant face oil. Patch test first.
- Rose water toner. Pure rose water can be patted onto skin after cleansing.
- Stretch it. A small amount of rose added to a geranium or palmarosa blend makes the whole blend smell more like rose for far less cost.
Storage
Keep rose otto and absolute in tightly capped dark glass, away from heat and light. Rose otto tends to keep well for several years when stored properly. Do not worry if it solidifies in a cool room; that is normal. Rose water is far more perishable. Refrigerate it once opened and discard it if it smells sour or turns cloudy.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between rose otto and rose absolute?
Rose otto is distilled from Damask rose petals and smells fresh and bright. Rose absolute is made by solvent extraction, keeps more phenylethyl alcohol and smells deeper and closer to the fresh flower.
Why is rose essential oil so expensive?
Petals contain very little oil. Industry sources commonly cite several thousand kilograms of petals per kilogram of rose otto, plus a short harvest season and hand picking.
Why did my rose oil turn solid?
Rose otto contains waxy compounds called stearoptenes that crystallize at cool temperatures. Warm the bottle gently in your hand and it will liquefy again.
Is rose water the same as rose oil?
No. Rose water is the fragrant water from distillation and contains only small amounts of aromatic compounds. Rose oil is the concentrated essential oil.
Is rosehip oil the same as rose oil?
No. Rosehip seed oil is a pressed carrier oil from the seeds of wild roses. It has little scent and is used as a skin-care base, not as a fragrance.
Is rose essential oil safe for skin?
It can be used at low dilutions, but it contains methyl eugenol and recognized fragrance allergens. Dilute well, patch test and stop if your skin reacts.
